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The Isolated Stitch
If you have a needlepoint project that has many isolated stitches you can do the isolated
stitches with a single ply of yarn. Just go over each stitch three times on 10 mesh canvas or two times on 12 or
14 mesh canvas. This eliminates runners of bulky yarn on the back of your work. Submitted
by Ellen Holmes. Tips
Index
Incredible Basketweave/Frame Method Improves Appearance of Needlepoint
Like Magic!
By Clara Denton Farthing
If you needlepoint without a frame, do you have an out-of-square distortion that is difficult
to block in the finished work? If you do use a frame to solve that problem, do you get twisted, split threads and
an unrecognizable basketweave? Here are a few tips and tricks that will help you solve these problems.
A Review of the Conventional Method
You are regularly instructed by needlepoint books and instructions such as those that come with
kits to work the basketweave stitch from the upper-right to the lower-left corner. However, these
instructions are only correct if you're using the sewing method without a frame. Remember that, in the sewing method, the needle is partially
inserted down into the canvas, then forced up and partially out before pulling it and the thread through. If you
use the sewing method, and if you are right handed, you should work the basketweave stitch from the upper-right
to the lower-left corner with the top thread of an intersection going vertically on a down row. This is as most instructions advise (Fig. 1).
A Better Way - The Lower-Left Method
When working with a frame and the stab (or punch) method, the needle and thread are pulled all
the way up through the canvas and then all the way down. With the left hand on top of the canvas, it is better to work from the lower-left to the upper-right corner with the top thread
of the canvas intersection going vertically on an up row. In
other words, when using a frame, a right-handed person becomes a left-handed needlepointer! See Fig. 2 for the
progression of stitches.
(As usual, a left-handed person would reverse these instructions.)
Whether stitching from the upper right without a frame or from the lower left with a frame, the
important thing to remember is that the needle points away from your completed work as you insert the needle into
the canvas, and the top thread of an intersection and your needle both lie in the same direction. By holding your needle in this manner when you use the stab method with a frame, you are duplicating
the angles used in the sewing method. Thus you are able to produce the same beautiful basketweave effect while
having the best features of both methods. You don't split previously worked stitches; the yarn pulls through the
canvas more easily since it is not gripped or caught by split yarn. Less twisting occurs. There is more room for
the yarn to spread out which provides better coverage of the canvas. Actually, less yarn is used since you do not
include split yarn within the stitches. Most important, you get improved, less lumpy stitches resulting in a better
appearance on the front of the canvas. Also, any necessary blocking will be easier since the worked canvas is more
flexible.
As you are doing an up row with the vertical thread on top of
a canvas intersection, the needle should be held vertically
at about a 40-degree angle up from the canvas, or as low to the canvas as possible while still clearing the canvas
threads (Fig. 3).
As you are doing a down row with the horizontal
thread on top of an intersection, the needle should be held horizontally at about a 40-degree angle up from the canvas (Fig. 4).
Alternative Lower-Left Method
If you find switching the direction of your needle too cumbersome, an alternative method is to
point the needle diagonally toward the upper right corner on both up and down rows (Fig. 5).
You may pick up a few fibers this way, but you still get a good appearance on the back. Just
keep the needle as low to the canvas as possible. Do not change methods within a color area as any change could
cause a ridge across the front of the completed work. You may wish to experiment by stitching a small sample area
with each method since the results from this alternative lower-left method can vary depending on the type of yarn
and canvas you use.
To check your work, place the needle halfway through the canvas and look on the back to see if you are catching
fibers. Your goal should be to avoid catching any fibers; however, you'll find it impossible to have your needle
at such precise angles with every stitch and occasionally you'll catch a few insignificant fibers.
The Advantages of a Frame
If you mount your canvas on a frame, the overall results will be much
better. It may seem quicker and more portable not to mount the canvas; but after working
with a mounted canvas for awhile, your stitching speed will actually increase, equaling or surpassing that of the
unmounted canvas method. You don't have as much wear and tear on your yarn as it is being passed through the canvas,
and the tension of each stitch is easier to control. Another important benefit is that the
completed canvas will need little or no blocking. Some pieces that are stitched without
a frame can never be blocked satisfactorily.
If your needlepoint piece is too large to handle easily on stretcher bars, a scroll frame can reduce the size and
make it more portable. Also, a scroll frame makes it easier to maintain a tight canvas. The canvas tends to become
loose on stretcher bars and frequent restapling is necessary. Actually, canvas should be stretched across the working
frame with the same tension as you expect the canvas to have on the final frame. The sides should be laced as well,
even for basketweave.
Prove it to Yourself
If you're a serious needlepointer, prove to yourself the importance of adopting the lower-left
method. With your canvas tightly mounted on a frame, make test squares of at least 1-1/2" x 1-1/2" using
first the regular upper-right method. Then work a similar area with the lower-left method (see photos below). You'll
be pleasantly surprised!
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